Jungsaemmool inspired eyeliner

I'm sure many of you have heard of the Korean celebrity makeup artist, Jungsaemmool. Her technique is wonderfully delicate and nuanced, and she is especially gentle on the skin - think the direct opposite of Mary Greenwell. :) 

Her technique reflects the epitome of current Asian makeup aesthetics, and I appreciate how she can create completely different moods in makeup without reverting to obvious tricks such as bold lipstick colours or strong contouring. I also love her mastery of eyeliner. 

The photo below is actually not the finished look from her tutorial, but I simply had to screenshot the video at this point. Today, I was inspired by the screenshot below (meaning I tried to imitate it and it went wrong, so now my look is loosely inspired by it).

Here is my attempt: 

Apologies for the foundation mismatch :D

Where JSM used a gel eyeliner and square eyeliner brush, I used a scraggly KATE liquid liner and a small oblong sable eyeshadow brush. 

After endless amounts of targeted application, blending (where blending actually resulted in accidentally removing flakes of eyeliner), and re-application, this was the final look:

The right side technically has a gap between the upper and lower lashline, but a flake of eyeliner got in the way! Boo. 

Though JSM leaves an intentional gap between the upper and lower lashline, the gap is still softly shadowed. To imitate this, I tried to blend out the eyeliner and also used the black shade from Shiseido Luminizing Satin Eye Color in OR302 Fire.

I tried to keep the centre of the upper and lower lashline light - only smudging existing eyeliner to faintly connect the darker edges, and drawing small triangles at the upper and lower outer lashlines. 

It was interesting to note that the dark eyeliner triangles end before the lashline, creating a more lifted and angular look. I only managed this on one eye, haha. 

To add dimension and luminosity to the eye, I added the peach shimmery shade from SUQQU Konruri to the lower lashline and the inner half of the upper lid.

SUQQU Konruri peach eyeshadow on the lid

Some tips that worked for me: 

1. The natural oils on my eyelids provided a great emollient base to take away any eyeliner mistakes during application. By the same logic, I didn't apply any eyeshadow on the lids until after I finished the liner.
2. I have what people call 'inner corner hooded lids', where my inner corner is much more hooded than the outer corner. It eats up lots of eyeliner, so don't underestimate the amount of inner corner lining that's required.

I hope you liked this recreation! In hindsight, I probably should've used gel eyeliner and applied mascara. Regardless I really like the way this turned out and I'll definitely try variations of it in future.

Here are some of my other favourite tutorials from Jungsaemmool:

Metallic navy smokey eyes

Actress interview makeup

Pearl brightening makeup

Thanks for reading! :) 

美容护肤